September 2005 Archives

Given my expressed predilection for single malt scotches, I was both fortunate and happy to net two bottles of scotch for my birthday. My lovely wife gave me an excellent bottle of Sherry finished 12 year old Glenmorangie (Pronounced orangey). We had a good laugh over the fact that she chose this bottle solely on aesthetic considerations alone. Apparently, unlike books, you can judge a good scotch by its cover. With the little bit of money I received I also picked up a bottle of McClelland's Highland scotch.

The McClelland's was something of an unknown element. I wanted a single malt scotch that was inexpensive, yet nice, for non-coinsurer friends. McClelland's is owned by Morrison Bowmore who is also the proprietor of Glen Garioch Distillery (Pronounced Geery). The McClelland's Highland scotch is a 5 year expression with much the same characteristics of the 8 year Glen Garioch Highland Tradition. It is straw colored, with a light body, and very smooth finish. Being so young it does come on a little bold at first. If you're looking for a scotch to take to the lake, park, backpacking, etc, you could do worse than the McClelland's at about $20. Since the McClelland's is a Glen Garioch scotch I'll give the lowdown on Glen Garioch. The Glen Garioch Distillery was founded in 1797, in the small Aberdeenshire village of Old Meldrum by one Thomas Simpson. This makes Glen Garioch one of Scotland's oldest distilleries. Their first spirit was announced in The Aberdeen Journal on December 1st 1785. Glen Garioch use ex-bourbon and sherry casks, and is one of the only distilleries still using floor malting. (Aberlour also uses floor malting.) They still take their water from a spring on Percock Hill. If this means nothing to you, you should know that malting is the process by which a grain is allowed to germinate, and then dried to arrest growth. Most distilleries now do malting in drums that can be turned rather than on the floor.

Glenmorangie is an established name among scotch drinkers. They have a well deserved reputation for making great scotches, and are the best selling single malt in Scotland. The distillery was found in 1843 by the Matherson brothers, in Scotland's oldest royal burgh Tain. It is worth mentioning that there was illicit distilling in the area as far back as the 1700's. The Royal Burgh of Tain was granted its royal charter in 1066 by King Malcolm III. The charter confirmed Tain both as a sanctuary, where people could claim the protection of the church, and an "immunity", whose resident merchants and traders were exempt from certain types of taxes. The distillery has been owned since 1918 by Macdonald and Muir who are also the proprietors of Glen Moray. The distillery housed a meal mill from the 1550's, and like Glen Moray a brewery from the 1820s. The water comes from the Tarlogie springs about a mile from the distillery. A house yeast and lightly-peated malt are used. It is notable that the stills of Glenmorangie are the tallest in Scotland at almost 17ft. Over the past several years Glenmorangie has added a selection of 12-year-olds that have been finished in Sherry, Madeira, and Port wood casks. The Sherry finish has a very delicate nose with soft elements of both a fruitiness and dry oakiness. Of course there are notes of sherry wine and traces of honey sweetness. The finish is long, warm, and moderately dry.

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